The French Connection

Three days to go and we are off to the middle east and 6 months in France. Our house swap with Valerie and Francois Dalsace has been gathering momentum since October last year.

On Sunday the family arrived from France (via Singapore) a bit jet lagged still. We had a 'friends and family' gathering for drinks and nibbles that day and yesterday and today have been orientating everyone: bank account, phone, computers & emails, Education Queensland, flights to Cairns, Southbank and the city, City Cat and bus experiences.

No advance with our French sadly, but time will tell.

Tomorrow we are off for lunch with Peter & Justine and then Thursday they fly to Cairns while I go to see Dad for the last time. His house is now unconditional.

That gives Jenny and me tomorrow evening and Friday to make sure we have EVERYTHING done for our 6 months away. Arrrggghhhhnnnn!

Last Day

It had to come, our last day - cold, wet and miserable. We hightailed it to the Museum of Emerging Science in Odaiba.  Getting there was almost half the fun - a really funky little driverless train with BIG windows (Yurikomome Line) takes you across the harbour via the rainbow bridge into this all new development with amazing buildings.

We got into the Museum out of the cold and wet and had a ball.  Best was ASIMO seen here all cut off top and bottom, because I have yet to master the video to stills conversion. (Jenny ended up shooting 90% video.) An amazing little robot that makes one really think hard about what the future holds.

By the time we got out the rain was easing and we took a great ferry up the Sumida R. to Asakusa and saw the big lantern at the Karimon? Gate, tacky Nakamise dori - the tourist trash street and made our way into the back streets of Asakusa which were much, much more interesting. 

Then it was Kappa Bashi Dori - the culinary street: mind boggling cooking and eating stuff from plastic food to taiyaki makers (which Jenny bought) to make japanese waffles.

Finally a subway to the hotel and a train to the airport.  Just to add drama we were off loaded in the middle of nowhere just as we had settled into our reserved seats and with lots of information in Japanese (not useful to us) left to our own devices.  Another commuter train came along (standing room only) but going to the airport it said - so we got on and arrived 40 mins late.  Just in time to check in and board leaving Bev to wait for her direct flight.

We had to cool our heals in Cairns for 5 hrs and didn't get in till 1pm - but nice to be home.  The cat was starved for company and made me sit in a chair all afternoon - naughty girl.

That's it folks!!

Shopping at last!

Here we are in Ginza (Tokyo) outside the prestigious store on Wako corner at the heart of Ginza.  Minimalist window design - for the average person seeing things in the window would only lead to temptations which cannot be realised.

Freezing cold with a little wind, despite the appearence of sunshine.

Today we started at the Tsukiji Fish Markets a freneticly paced place which requires full attention not to be knocked down and turned into sashimi.

We were to go to the Kabuki for interest, but the queues were too daunting, so Jenny went on a long train trip on her own to Kofu to buy Inden wear from the source. Meanwhile the geriatrics tottered off to Ueno Park and the Museums.  We got into the National Science Museum free by showing our passports as over 65s.  Good value.

Jenny returned refreshed and we went out to dine a  great Italian restaurant and retired to our rooms with chocolate.

Tomorrow is the last day and a flight at 8 or 9pm.  It's nearly over.

Fuji-san

Today was a day of travel on all modes of transport around Hakone, the tourist zone around Mt Fuji near Tokyo.

The day dawned bright and clear and cold.  Jenny - san was well prepared, Fuji - san was blanketed too, in snow.

We travelled by suburban train, Shinkansen, local train, bus, shank's pony (along the old Tokaido road), Pirate Ship, Gondola over a Volcano, Cable trolley down a mountain, tiny local rail car, local train, Shinkansen and suburban train.  

But we saw tiny mountain towns, Fuji clear against the blue sky (later covered with cloud), Lake  Ashi, sulphur jets in an old caldera and lots of people.  

We got back about 4PM tired, and very cold (except for Jenny -san who moved around in a down tent).  A great day.

Winter!

Well winter has come to the rest of Japan it seems.  Yesterday Jenny and I slipped off early to see Fushimi-Inari just near Kyoto with its thousands of vermillion tori leading all over the hillside (Bev stayed and nursed here tiring feet).  It was brisk.

Then we caught up with Bev and took a bus to the golden pavilion which never ceases to blow one away.  On to Ryoangi which must have something, but what is it?  Very Zen.

We caught the end of the Kimono parade at Nishijin Textiles and lunched at the oldest soba restaurant in Japan established in 1452 - that's before any of us were born! It is said to be the Emperor's favourite and he goes there when in Kyoto.  I guess we are in good company.

Then a tour of Nijo the shogun's palace built much later in the 1620s.  It is impressive.

When Jenny and I finally got back to Kyoto station it was snowing. And this morning when we left it was snowing - and between Kyoto and Nagoya it was blanketed in white.  We saw Fuji-san well because by the time we approached Tokyo the sky was blue - and so were we when we got out of the cosy train.  Brr.

A pretty quite time in Tokyo this afternoon, but we did manage to show Bev the lights at Wako Corner Ginza - iconic.

Tomorrow a tour around Fuji-san and more chills I expect. 

Pearls to Pizza

Not such a memorable day.

Our plans were foiled by discovering - predawn- that the Kintetsu line does not accept JR passes.

Change of plans and our journey was longer and more difficult than we thought - and some.

Not to worry, we made it to Mikimoto's island and paid handsomely to go in his shop  -Hmm! - but didn't buy any pearls.

Then a train and walk and walk, to see the famed Mother and child rocks. Nice, skies were blue, pretty little spot, but way out of the way.

Then a wild ride on a bus through outer nowhere to a suburban traffic jam where we joined the other 10s of thousands going to Naiku THE most sacred shrine in Japan.  Her we walked and walked and we walked in the crowds and found ourselves eventuall at the foot of the stairs to the shrine, but a couple of thousand were before us on the steps.  It was 3PM and we had a 4 hour return trip to Kyoto.

So we started back walking.  We made it back and by 7.30 were having a decadent pasta/pizza/beer meal.  What a day.

Peace and pancakes.

Today saw us train to Kurashiki, a small town not far from Okayama.  It is cute.

We then left for Hiroshima and arrived to have some famous pancakes "okinomiyaki"? at the station.  Supposedly a Hiroshima speciality.

Then a trolley car to the Peace Dome - very sobering and quite moving.

Finally we trained and ferried to Miyajima - an island off the coast with the famous red Tori in the water.

Eternal Flame

We spent the night in a ryokan on tatami with a full kaiseki style dinner and japanese public bath.  Fabulous.  We were right on the beach overlooking the inland sea with the shoji screens of the room framing the black pines on the beach front.

Then we arrived at the pier area just as the oyster festival was setting up.  We walked almost alone at 8.30AM around the front to the world heritage Itsumushima Shrine with its famous vermillion Tori set out in the sea.  Our main companions were the deer - everywhere.

Then we walked up to to the Mt Misen ropeway and took the cable cars in two stages to what we thought was the top.  No - about 100m or more below the summit we set out through the forest filled with monkeys towards the shrines at the summit.  We went down, down, down and then up, up, up and up eventually reaching half way up at the eternal flame -said to have been burning continuously for 1200 years.  Bev had given up the climb (wisely) and Jenny and I were burnt out so we stopped and returned down the mountain to catch the oyster festival in full swing.  Thousands were there.  

We returned to Kyoto by 6pm exhausted again. 

Traditional gardens and traditional crafts

A quieter day today.  Bev was thinking of just staying around the station precinct after yesterday's marathon, but we modified our plans and greatly reduced the amount of walking.

First it was on to a #100 bus for a trip to the Heian Shrine.  A HUGE red tori leads to the great 1000 year old shrine - a great square of red buildings topped with green roofs around a white court of several acres.  But it was the gardens we came to see, a tranquil oasis in the city with a magnificent lake crossed by a large roofed bridge with seating along both sides.  I sketched there watching the ducks play and the herons swoop.  The cherry trees were all bare, but a couple of tiny plums about 30cms high were in bloom heralding spring - in about 6 weeks the cherry trees will be out and it will be beautiful.

After this we went to a nearby shop specialising in Urushi (wooden lacquerware). Exquisite stuff and the owner befriended us and because we knew a tiny bit about japanese traditional crafts showed us his personal museum upstairs.  It was a very special occasion. He said his family had been making urushi in Kyoto for 350 years!

After a trip to the handicraft centre and a taxi to Pontocho for lunch we had had enough and returned early to the hotel.  Jenny and I ventured out later to book our bullet train seats for tomorrow - Hiroshima and Miyajima.

Of Temples, Tempura and Temptations

We began at 7AM with muesli in a cup and proceeded via shuttle bus to the Agon Shu Temple.  There on the top of a hill surrounded by thousands of the faithful we watched the Fire Festival where two huge pyres are set alight to burn all day and drive  off all our bad thoughts and deeds and leave us pure of heart and mind.

Returning to Kyoto Bev almost lapsed at Berry's the Kyoto Station's famous cake shop, but succumbed only to a doughnut later before we went to the stunning, amazing and deeply awesome Kyomizudera - one of Japans most revered temples perched in the hills above Kyoto on the most gigantic wooden pilings.

Then we brushed with some Geisha on the way to Gion and a visit to Kennenji - Jenny's personal favourite temple.  We ended with a trip through the food market of Nishiki-dori and a subway back to the Kyoto Station precinct where at last we were able to eat.  It was 4pm and we fell upon tempura and udon, before succumbing to overwhelming exhaustion and returning to the hotel.  It was enough for 1 day.

Bullet Trains and Bento Boxes

It was snowing steadily when we left Marks Inn Sapporo and crunched our way to the subway at Nakajima Koen and joined the crush on the trains to Sapporo Central.  There our first job was to book Shinkansen seats for the afternoon train from Shinagawa (Tokyo) to Kyoto. That done we found everywhere closed so opted for an earlier train to to the airport.  The snow increased steadily and Bev was getting worried we would be locked in.  But the sky was blue when we left on time for Tokyo in a nearly empty plane.

It was not as easy as we thought to connect from Haneda airport to Shinagawa Shinkansen.  We had to buy tickets on another rail line and then had to transfer to JR and the Shinkansen.  We made it after a glitch, but that's what makes travel so interesting - the glitches.  This trip is very interesting.

At Chitose we were in a food extragavanza, but only bought some nibbles (which we of course left on the train later!!) and held back from buying the live Queen Crab which Bev fancied (only about $750AUS).  So it was bento boxes for the trip to Kyoto and we arrived on time and booked into the room - no worries.

Tomorrow is old Kyoto.

Fun, Beer and Ice at Night

It was sunny and clear and the snow was so bright.  We began with a train trip to Tsudome where there was a community dome for thawing out and a playground full of ice slides and snow men and lots and lots of little kids, some numbered to prevent loss, and the odd parent grandparent.  Everyone was having a grand time.  Even Bev and Jenny took a rubber dinghy ride behind a snowmobile.

Then it was down to the Sapporo Beer Museum to sample their wears and to have some lunch.  Beautiful old redbrick building in grounds with thick thigh to waist high snow.

We returned to Sapporo via a tour of the suburbs and took a train to the Outdoor Village Museum, but aborted half way when we realised it would be closed.  So it was back to the underground malls to introduce Bev to the wonders of department stores - notably the food halls in the basement - this time it was Daimaru.

Back on the subway to Susukino and dusk was falling.  We got to see all the ice sculptures lit up at night with snow gently falling.  Here we found a great traditional little eatery with a sliding door about 1.4m high so we had to duck to get into the cosy wooden warmth.  We had some fabulous traditional Hokkaido crab and returned back to Marks Inn about 6-6.30 for the picture downloads and some emailing.

Next stop Kyoto

Sapporo

Monday 9th has dawned bright and clear, temp -6C.  We are warm and rested at Marks Inn and outside is a fairyland of snow (if you look at the trees and canals) or a nightmare (if you look at the roads).

We've had our adventures.  On Sat night we circled Sapporo in a blizzard and had to return to Tokyo.  4hrs flying to make 100kms. JAL got us a hotel, but it was a nightmare with only 4 hours before we had to fly again.  We got in OK in sunshine, but another blizzard seemed to hit just as we landed.

Not to worry we have had one day of magic - the ice sculptures and snow monuments are impressive and we saw them all with snow falling and crowds milling about - all very wintery and iconic. Then we had a great meal of crab in a very traditional restaurant with tatami and shoji and all.

We returned ealy to the hotel and have slept for about 12-15hrs.  New adventures today.

JAPAN 2009

Japan tomorrow!

The planning has been going on for nearly year and as the dollar has sunk against the yen the plans have been trimmed.

Nevertheless, Jenny and Lester with Jenny's Mum Bev will arrive in Sapporo for the snow festival on the 7th, then go to Kyoto, Miyajima and Tokyo over the next 2 weeks.

Watch this space.